BELIZE: “A Photo Blog of Two Cayes & A Mayan Ruin”

Posted on April 13, 2013 by janet d.

Thailand, Norway, Brazil, Iceland…the travel section of my Bucket List is as eclectic as, well, me. And, it’s long. So why would I ever go back to the same place twice…let alone three, four, or more times? I abandoned this travel philosophy in 2006, after wandering to a tiny Central American country with a split personality (read about this wander in “The Rainforest & The Reef”). I’m writing this just a few weeks after returning from my fourth visit to Belize. And, my plan is to return every other year for the remainder of my traveling life.

Back in 2006, my guard compromised by beauty (and a couple piña colada), I fell for the puppy lure strategically placed on San Pedro’s main beach. The next thing I knew, I was sitting in front of a fast talking gay Irish man and signing on the dotted line of a timeshare contract. Today I’m happy to say I have yet to suffer from buyer’s remorse and I’m fairly certain I’m well past the point of infection. In fact, I count the days in between my bi-annual visits to Captain Morgen’s Resort in Ambergris Caye.

One of Belize’s personalities is lush rain forest filled with exotic wildlife, crumbling Mayan ruins, rivers sneaking through caves, and Mennonite farms. The other has glowing turquoise reefs, quiet resorts and rainbow colored houses, tangled mangroves, sun-bathing black iguanas, and pristine white sand beaches. The former calls for bug spray, binoculars and 20/20 “rainforest eyes,” the latter for snorkeling gear, a stack of reading material and a thirst for tropical drinks. It’s really un-Belizable (sorry…couldn’t stop myself) that both of these personalities thrive in just 8,867 square miles!

Formerly known as British Honduras until given its independence in 1981, Belize’s official language is English. The people are as vibrant as the surroundings…a mix of native Mayans, Latin Americans from neighboring countries, the Creole descendants of African slaves, Mennonite and Amish farmers, Anglos, and countless exotic blends of all of the above.

My stomping grounds are primarily San Pedro, Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker. Getting to the cayes is not for the faint of heart. Don’t be fooled that you’ve arrived when you touch ground at Phillip Goldson International Airport in Belize City. You’re only part way there. Both options for the next leg require an adventurous spirit…either 20 minutes in the air in a vintage plane the size of a New York cab or a 1-1/2 hour ride in a boat crammed far beyond capacity. Now you’re in San Pedro. Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker require one more boat and 10 to 30 more minutes.

Ahhhhh, but once you’re there, the real world is shoved aside by the dramatic scenery, water that beckons you to come for a swim, strategically placed hammocks and accommodating bartenders.

Maya Island Air is one way to get from Phillip Goldson Int’l Airport to San Pedro

The Maya Island Air terminal at San Pedro Municipal Airport

Baggage claim at San Pedro Municipal Airport

Getting to Ambergris Caye Captain Morgan's resort Belize

The last of three legs…almost to Ambergris Caye

Captain Morgan's Resort Belize timeshare

The timeshare units at Captain Morgan’s Resort on Ambergris Caye

Excuse me, but something is seriously missing here…

My preferred purchase from the beach hawkers…home roasted cashews.

One of several bars in San Pedro

Colorful Caye Caulker…the budget island

Caye Caulker’s movie theater

Sand Bar at The Split Caye Calker Belize

Sand Bar on The Split in Caye Caulker

Snorkeling with nurse sharks

Altun Ha Mayan ruins

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BAJA CALIFORNIA: “Mooching in Cabo”

Posted on September 14, 2010 by janet d.

This blog was originally posted on Travelblog.org in March 2008, and has been viewed a whopping 1,539 times to date. As I explain in the blog, this was not my ideal journey – my free spirit was too bound by corporate obligations. But, I tasted enough to know that there are parts of Cabo I could wander to that would definitely fulfill my spirit…

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Cabo San Lucas 2008

The entire family was bound for Cabo San Lucas to attend my husband’s company’s annual recognition conference. I have a love-hate relationship with business trips. Of course, I am ecstatic to see a part of the world on someone else’s dime, but I detest being bound by the strings of business obligations. We are “forced” to stay at the most corporate of hotels and there are various events to attend, which detracts from a fully free-spirited experience.

I got my first (and, hopefully, last) kooky comment from a stranger about this blog, which prompted me to add this…I have no doubt we would have had our usual fully positive travel experiences if I would have been completely in charge of planning. (I envision a small hacienda off the beaten path with a view of the sea and gracious locals sharing their culture with us in unique ways.) Alas, I was not in charge, so we got what we got. I write these blogs to record personal memories and help fellow wanderers. They are always honest….if I don’t like something, I say it. I am not a politician, so if you’re looking for politically correct, you won’t find it here…

DAY 1

I didn’t conduct my usual investigation for this trip because of the business slant. My quick Google search didn’t turn up much in the way of “undiscovered” or

Riu Palace Cabo San Lucas Baja California Mexico

The beach side of Riu Palace

“quiet”, however, there were lots of warnings to steer clear of the aggressive timeshare hawkers that bombard you as you step off the plane. As we were leaving the house to catch our plane, I learned just how much I have spoiled my husband. He showed up at the front door fully dressed with his suitcase in hand. When I asked him for our hotel info, I was met with a vacant stare…

The flight from San Diego to Cabo San Lucas couldn’t be easier…less than two hours after take-off, we landed, grabbed our bags, passed through immigration and customs, and ran smack into…who else? The timeshare folks. Even though I had been fairly warned, they camouflaged themselves as hotel shuttle operators. We hesitated…and, they snared us. We were offered a free ride to our hotel, which the man insisted was much safer than relying on the “taxi mafia” (his words, not mine) outside the front door. Having ridden in Tijuana taxis many times in my pre-drinking age days, we readily agreed. The offers kept coming – free breakfast the next morning at Cabo’s newest resort, a free glass bottom boat tour and a sunset whale watching cruise for all four of us, as well as half off all other activities we booked through him. We quickly informed him that we

Riu Palace beach Cabo San Lucas Baja California Mexico

The usually un-swimmable Riu beach…

already owned the same timeshare he was trying to sell us and were not interested in buying a duplicate. “Perfect!”, the salesman exuberantly declared. “You won’t have to sit through the 4-hour presentation! You can just show up, eat breakfast, and take a quick tour! You are so very lucky!” Since we were mildly interested in exchanging into this resort, this was starting to sound like a reasonable deal. Our son, Spencer, looked at us as if we had lost our minds. Stay tuned to see who was right…

Thankfully, en route to the airport, Lance managed to find out that we were staying at Riu Palace. We were dropped at the entrance by the timeshare shuttle with instructions on how to surreptitiously meet our representative the next morning far outside the hotel gates (ahem). We hopped out of the bus into the luxurious and eclectic lobby of the “palace”…part Egyptian, part plantation, part Mexican, all interesting.

We went in search of lunch while our room was being finished and ended up at a covered patio overlooking the pool and ocean where a huge buffet was crammed with every kind of food imaginable. I’m seeing big prices and tiny (very picky) appetites…two things that don’t mix well for me as I absolutely deplore waste. My head snapped around when I heard Lance mention a magical word…“all-inclusive.” Of course, he didn’t know for certain, so I went in search of someone who did. Sure enough…every snack, drink (even alcoholic ones), and meal (in every restaurant and through room service) was FREE! My first thought…woo hoo! Second…my

Stronger than they look…

waistline was going to pay.

Our room was very nice, although the sleeping arrangements were going to be interesting…two double beds pushed together and a tiny couch that didn’t fold out. Spencer and Sophie immediately started vying for the couch…until two miniscule bugs were seen crawling on the floor. The couch was no longer the preferred option and they both attempted to convince me that it would be very comfortable with all four of us on the double-double bed. Lance was going to be disgruntled when he came out of the bathroom.

The pool and ocean were beckoning, so we quickly changed into our suits and left our pretty room. Unfortunately, the ocean directly in front of the resort was not swimmable as indicated by the red flag posted at the edge of the sand. We quickly saw why…the waves were huge and literally slammed the shore. I envisioned kids being sucked out to sea. They still had a blast running from the waves, digging in the sand, and searching for shells. As Lance and I sat there watching them cavort around the beach like the littler kids they used to be, we looked up…WHALES! They were only about 30 feet offshore, swimming in the swells of the newly forming waves. What a treat! Looking the other way, we saw Cabo’s picturesque cove filled with two massive (not-so-beautiful) cruise ships, lots of smaller boats (some pulling parasailers), and jet skis. The massive rock formations encircling the sea were stunning…

Spencer & Sophie keeping a healthy distance…

After a brief schmooze at the beachfront bar with fellow corporate employees, we headed to dinner. It was yet another experience in gluttony…there seemed to be enough food to feed a small nation. Back in the room, the kids and I watched a comedic performance by Lance entitled “I Was Robbed!” (Loudly Subtitled: “Don’t Doubt Me!”). After I calmed my husband down, I threw logic at him…if he was truly robbed, why would our passports, cell phones, laptops, all of my money and $33 of his money still be here??? No, Honey, it does not make sense that a thief would leave those particular valuables as decoys. And, by the way, didn’t you just drop a wad at the airport for the timeshare deposit??? He pondered this, looked sheepish, and apologized to us (and the front desk clerk) and we resumed our vacation.

We did end up cramming into the two double beds, occasionally awakened by Spencer’s animated conversations and Sophie’s spasmodic elbows and knees. Even so, it was kind of fun…after all, we sure won’t be able to do this for much longer!

DAY 2

We followed our instructions to the ‘T’ and ran to meet our shuttle toCasa Dorada, Cabo’s newest timeshare project situated in the center of the cove. It was a sophisticated resort facing the statuesque guardian rocks. I was mildly concerned when the girl who checked us in didn’t mention

Riu Palace pool Cabo San Lucas Baja California Mexico

The (very “Macarena”-ish) Riu pool

that we were already owners and would be taken on the abbreviated tour. I became very concerned when a suave salesman swept us down to the beach and casually started the spiel. Lance and I were immediately transported back to Belize when Mally, the slick barefooted gay Irish man, sold us our Captain Morgan’s timeshare. We quickly got the picture. By this point, Spencer was dancing around us whispering “Suckers!” and “I TOLD you so!” Lance spent the next 15 minutes fighting to get our transportation deposit returned. An hour later, we were back at Riu Palace eating an incredible breakfast and returning to our real purpose for being in Cabo…relaxing (with mini bursts of work).

After raising my body temperature high enough, I actually got into the lukewarm pool for several minutes. The kids were stunned and now understood why we got FOUR towels instead of just THREE (such smart alecks…I taught them well. ) Lance left us to join some co-workers for some scuba instruction, which was especially perfect since we would be wandering to Belize next week and he had high hopes of diving the Blue Hole. While he was gone, the kids and I emulated pinballs and bounced from the beach to the pool to the dining area to our room to the 24 hour ice cream machine. The highlights of Spence’s day were dodging the huge waves, burying himself in the sand, and playing beach volleyball with some college kids (and holding his own quite well). Sophie was happy to suffer through some temporary discomfort to get corn rows in her hair, shriek at the waves, search for seashells, and help bury her brother. I oversaw all the fun while reading, soaking up the view, and politely dodging the incessant trinket peddlers working the sand.

Sophie having a moment

We had a very average dinner – with painfully slow service – in one of the hotel restaurants. Although we enjoyed spending some time with Lance’s co-workers during the hour-long wait for our meal, we made a pact that we would be sticking to the no-wait gluttonous buffets for all future dinners.

DAY 3

Lance and Spencer almost went on an ATV excursion. After a bumpy hour-long bus ride, Spencer was hit with some mysterious illness and they had to get right back on the bus for a bumpy hour-long ride back to the hotel. Lance was convinced he was at Death’s door since he had turned down manning his own ATV, something he has begged to do for years. I was fairly certain it was nothing more serious than a case of junk food overload.

While the boys were gone, Sophie and I explored up the beach. The landscape didn’t vary much…a long line of jam-packed resorts, more sunbathers (ranging in color from ghostly white to mocha brown to lobster red), peddlers galore, and occasional horses topped with weathered locals or barefooted tourists (my favorite part!). We embarked on a serious search for unique additions to Sophie’s expanding seashell collection.

After lunch, Spencer miraculously recovered. Diagnosis: ‘junkfooditis’ combined with ‘carsickitis’. Treatment: a 30 minute vegetative state, followed by a HEALTHY meal force fed by mom.

Lance and I decided we deserved some quiet time by the pool, sipping cappuccinos and reading. Unfortunately, the Riu Palace entertainment staff didn’t agree. The only reason I knew we were not on a cruise ship was because I was not hovering over the toilet wishing for death. Over the next hour, we were

A ride on a glass bottom boat…

subjected to the Macarena blaring over the pool speaker and an actual beer drinking contest (complete with one too many big bellied American men). Once again, I had to decline poolside dance lessons (“Meringue, samba???”). I was still recovering from watching overweight Americans waving their hands in the air while doing water aerobics in the pool to the beat of pulsating Mexican disco music (“Woot, woot!!!”).

Buffet dinner and motivational speaking courtesy of Lance’s company tonight. I put my corporate smile on…

DAY 4

Much to my chagrin, one of the servers at breakfast has donned Spencer “Muy guapo!” While I appreciate the compliment to my boy, she is many, many years older than him and she is most definitely flirting. No, I’m not being an overprotective overreactive mom…this is the same young woman who offered my 13 year old son a cerveza last night. Time for a little talk with Mr. Guapo…

Today we ventured outside our resort walls and hailed a water taxi to Cabo’s marina for a glass bottom boat ride. After walking – then running – from

Pelican sighting!

one side of the huge marina over to the other forging through a jungle of local wildlife (peddlers and partiers) and authentic wildlife (a baby jaguar), we managed to find our tour company (although we barely believed them because several other companies had sworn that they were it…until they saw our purchased tickets). We hopped on a tiny boat with two tiny glass openings in the bottom and headed out to sea. It ended up to be more of a tour, than a marine life experience, but it was pretty cool to be up close to pelicans, Lover’s Beach, seals (albeit quite fragrant), Divorce Beach, and floating amongst the rock formations that form most southernmost tip of Baja California. I probably understood about 20% of what our guide had to say, but his good mood was infectious. I scoped out the perfect place for a potential future visit…a colorful little colony tucked away on the Pacific Ocean side of the point called Pedragal. It seemed to be a more peaceful haven, segregated from the spring break/cruise ship crowd.

After the boat tour, we had a delicious Mexican lunch in the marina at Los Deseos…a refreshing mojito for me, a blended margarita for Lance, and fruity virgin drinks for the kids, melted Mexican cheeses mixed with tequila (and fire!) in a volcanic rock bowl served with fresh corn tortillas, grilled butterfly shrimp, mole chicken, chicken fajitas, and plain chicken tacos (for picky Sophie). Too stuffed for dessert, we went in search of the sandy “road” home. Unfortunately, we had to meander through an Americanized mall before we ended up smack in the heart of Cabo’s packed beachside

Some day we’ll stay in Pedragal!

bars. All of us instantly gained a greater appreciation for our much quieter section of un-swimmable beach. We bought fresh mangoes on sticks – squirted with lime juice and sprinkled with chili powder – and decided that tomorrow Lance and the kids would try parasailing.

DAY 5

After breakfast, we headed for parasailing. The original plan was for Lance and Sophie to ride tandem and Spencer brave it by himself, however the size and weight of our dinky kids threw a glitch in this plan. Spencer was too small to keep the parasail in place, so it was decided that the kids would tandem together. They slowly climbed in elevation until they were just two small dots in the sky. Leave it to Mr. Guapo to test the limits…hanging backwards and swinging back and forth causing some serious maternal heart palpitations. The worst part…the “evil eye” does not work from such a long distance and he knew it. The boat driver brought them close to the shore, slowing down as their feet skimmed the water, then sped up sending them flying back into the sky. I didn’t have to see their smiles to know how massive they were. As soon as they got back down to the boat, the begging for more commenced. We were happy to acquiesce…

Parasailing Cabo San Lucas Baja California Mexico

Kids in Heaven!

The remainder of our time at the resort was spent reading and swimming. In the afternoon, we headed home…thankfully, an easy journey. Definitely a benefit of Baja!

Overall, we liked – but didn’t love – our time in Cabo San Lucas. We’ve been spoiled by Belize’s lush vegetation, warm water, thinner crowds, laid back lifestyle, and less traumatized locals. I have no doubt I will plan a more free-spirited and authentic experience here some day…maybe in Pedregal, maybe somewhere even more remote…

COSTA RICA: “Experience the Beauty of the Rainforest…Even In the Shower”

Posted on July 28, 2010 by janet d.

This blog was originally published on Travelblog.org in May 2006, and has been viewed 1,194 times since then! (I love that! I hope it helped others to have an equally incredible journey to this beautiful country. Our “wander” to Costa Rica was the second half of a trip in celebration of our 15th wedding anniversary. I’m seriously mulling over returning in 2011…there is so much more to see. And, I would love to re-connect with one of my very favorite travel “connections”…<hr

After a wonderful rainforest and coral adventure in Belize, my husband and I headed to Costa Rica for the second half of our anniversary adventures…

LAPA RIOS ECO-LODGE - OSA PENINSULA

Our Lapa Rios cabana

Wonders never cease…it seems I’ve become quite acclimated to tiny little planes. I’ve taken two more flights and I even managed to have a conversation and enjoy the beauty beneath me on the last one, which took us from San Jose to Puerto Jimenez (on the Osa Peninsula at the southern tip of the country). We flew over farms, mountains covered in dense rainforest, and a beautiful coastline through clouds that were so distinctly formed that they resembled paintings. We were bound for Lapa Rios, a sustainable eco-lodge set in a 1,000 acre rainforest preserve overlooking the Golfo Dulce.

We were met by our Lapa Rios greeter the second my foot hit the first step out of the plane. (That has been one surprise of our trip…the extraordinary level of organization of everyone involved in our travels.) We had been warned that Costa Rica was hotter than Belize…and, I would have to agree. In a matter of seconds, beads of sweat began to emerge from every pore on our bodies. Everyone here has a sheen from the combined layers of sweat, sunscreen and bug repellent. The next 45 minutes were a hands-on education on the state of Costa Rica’s infamous roads, something we had only read about to this point. Apparently they are so bad that many mainstream tourists stay away – I guess driving over small craters and large rocks while dodging the locals, who barrel around corners on motorcycles, ATVs, 4x4s and even Mack trucks, isn’t really conducive to their relaxation. For us, the roads serve as a screening device…weeding out all of the rookie travelers. However, it was reassuring to know that once we arrived at Lapa Rios, we would be staying put for three days, traveling only by foot and walking stick.

Lapa Rios is STUNNING…16 thatched roof cabanas spread throughout the grounds and a truly amazing central lodge complete with dining area, deck, bar, library and observation deck (reached by a carved wooden spiral staircase), all overlooking the forest and ocean. Our cabana had only one solid wall…screens are all that separated us from the rainforest outside. Even when you shower, you are amidst the trees being peeked at by an occasional small mammal and a plethora of birds. Our deck, with a beloved hammock (wish there were two), overlooked the sea, which was peppered with surfers and boats. The beds were ensconced in mosquito netting, which serves an actual function here rather than just trendy decor. And the vegetation around the grounds was mind boggling…just imagine all your houseplants injected with steroids and firmly rooted in the ground.

Lounging on our private deck…

I am impelled to dedicate a paragraph to one of the most talented people at Lapa Rios – the bartender. Our search for the perfect tropical drink is over. We have a new goal now…to taste every drink on the Lapa Rios bar menu. So far we’ve checked off a Guaro Sour (light & refreshing made from Guaro – sugar cane liqueur, fresh lime, and a dash of sugar), a Mamalapa (a frothy blend of fresh pineapple juice, cream of coconut, vodka, and sparkling water), and the current grand prize winner – a Tropical Margarita made with layers of blended fresh mango and blackberry. What a talented man…an artisan, in fact!

A coatamundi (the Costa Rican version of a raccoon)

The rest of the staff, comprised mostly of members of the local community, are extremely friendly and eager to meet your every need. They are grateful for the opportunity to practice their English and learn valuable skills that will hopefully take them off the path of poverty. Part of the owners’ mission is to help educate the locals in order to better their lives and help preserve the surrounding resources (sustainable hospitality). One interesting example of this mission (as told to us by our nature guide) is their effort to teach the locals the true character of the kinkajou, a medium-sized tree dweller similar to a monkey. Although this beautiful animal only eats vegetation and insects, there is a local legend that it descends from the tress at night to relieve the people of their blood. Believing this, it’s no surprise that the people fear them and kill them at any opportunity. Through education, the owners of Lapa Rios are working to change this unfortunate tradition.

Finding wildlife here takes almost no effort at all. While walking around the grounds our first afternoon, we saw several coatimundis (the Costa Rican version of a raccoon), an agouti, several scarlet macaws, and green and black iguanas. On our first two guided treks, we saw three species of monkeys (howler, spider and white-faced), a three-toed sloth, several frogs and insects, and lots of five-toed surfer dudes. For birders, this place is pretty much Paradise. Nighttime here is not for sleeping peacefully – the forest comes alive and speaks all night into the wee hours of the morning when all becomes hidden and quiet only to be seen by those who have acclimated to jungle time. I must say it is a very strange feeling walking along knowing that beady eyes are probably watching your every move. My determination to see creatures has turned me into a a bonafide rainforest detective and rewarded us with many sightings that most people quickly pass by.

Chestnut Mandible Toucan (viewed from the shower!)

So it was bound to happen…it rained on us in the rainforest. Oh, excuse me, did I say rained??? I mean the Heavens opened up and DRENCHED us with torrents of, thankfully, warm water. Of course, this happened less than halfway through our four-hour trek and, of course, we didn’t bring our Columbia turbo rain jackets purchased just for this specific occasion! Within minutes, the trail turned into a slippery fast-moving stream. Fortunately, it remained quite warm outside and the rain dissuaded the mosquitoes that had been plaguing us for the last kilometer. Best of all, the frogs came out filling in a gap in our creature sightings…several species of poison dart frogs – bright green, black & red – came out from their hiding places and awed everybody. So here’s the question of the day…what do you think the odds are of finding out a fellow hiker was a former business associate of Lance’s??? We’re in the middle of the bloody rainforest…on the southernmost tip of Costa Rica…and I have to listen to real estate chatter. A big boo to that! Yet another reason to be thankful for the downpour, which shut everybody up…

Upon returning to Lapa Rios, Lance headed for the pool and I to a warm shower. Even while taking a shower here, one cannot escape excitement. Remember I described the screened walls of the shower? As I’m rinsing off, a chestnut mandible toucan and a fiery billed aracari land on the tree just feet away from me! I’m sure they were quite entertained watching me run, dripping wet, all around the room trying to find my camera (this is an important lesson…never go anywhere without a camera in the rainforest).

The Lapa Rios pool

It’s a bit scary how quickly Lance and I reached our lofty goal…we will now have an intimate relationship with just a few of our favorite tropical drinks. We’ve gotten ourselves a bit of a reputation, but hey…no one will ever know – after all, we’re at the southernmost tip of Costa Rica in the middle of the rainforest! (The funny thing is that we drink very little at home…it must be the humidity.)

While Lance was lying supine on the massage table, I found a secluded place overlooking the gulf coast to relax a bit myself. What a place it was…two scarlet macaws squawking just above my head, a coatamundi poking around for snacks to my left, and an agouti scuffling beneath my feet. Jeesh…where can a person go to relax in Costa Rica???

This morning we followed Nito (our absolute favorite rainforest guide) in search of waterfalls. Along the way, he opened leaves to reveal suction cup bats (one nursing a teeny baby) and lots of bright green tree frogs. Nito was amazing…he would cock his head, listen intently, dash into the trees, and return with a poison dart frog. No rain this time, but we did get wet…intentionally. We were the only ones who dove in the swimming hole underneath a small waterfall. How could you not???

Our favorite nature guide – Nito

After watching the rainforest version of television – nine howler monkeys munching on leaves from the trees outside our room – we spent the evening in the lodge sipping on Mojito Ticos, the final grand prize winner (a Guaro sour with freshly ground mint leaves), and watching a group of local girls perform traditional Costa Rican dances. The owners of Lapa Rios make an effort to bring bits of local culture to their visitors, so every day we’ve been exposed to some facet of Costa Rican life without ever having to leave the grounds and drive on those daunting roads.

Now, I’m back in the room safely inside the mosquito net counting the bumps all over my body. Apparently, I taste much better than Lance…while he has almost none, I have 10 bites behind one knee! There are some very adventurous rainforest bugs here because I have bites in some very tucked away places. It’s funny…if we were at the Ritz Carlton and found a big green bug in our bed, we’d be on the phone to management. Here we get excited and run to get our camera. Only in the rainforest…

Tomorrow we leave Lapa Rios – the comfort, the electricity, the bartender – and head further south to the rustic portion of our trip at Corcovado Tent Camp. Don’t quite know what to expect, but I’m putting my trust in the author of 1,000 Places to See Before You Die…Ms. Shultz hasn’t failed us yet!

Suction cup bat (in Nito’s gentle hands)

CORCOVADO TENT CAMP – OSA PENINSULA

We were met in the Lapa Rios lobby at 11 a.m. by Orlando, our taxi driver (now that is an interesting job in Costa Rica), who would take us to Carate. It’s really not far…under normal circumstances…but, it took us over an hour to get there. We were met under the trees between the air strip and the beach by an old Costa Rican man wearing a floppy straw hat and black rubber boots. He was ready to carry our luggage and lead us in his wooden horse-pulled wagon to Corcovado Tent Camp, a 30-minute walk along the black sand beach. As we walked with large waves crashing on our left and the rainforest on our right, flocks of scarlet macaws flew all around us (one tree was home to 11 squawking wonders) and our guide ambled slowly along in front of us, legs dangling off the wagon and hands lovingly patting his horse.

The camp is a collection of blue and white raised screened tents separated from the ocean by only a patch of soft grass, palm trees, hammocks, and a sandy beach. A bed and small table completely fill up the interior. A collection of small candles sits atop the table…the only source of light once the sun sets at 6 p.m. The bathrooms are communal and there is an eating area filled with picnic tables where we congregate to eat family-style when the conch shell blows. This is a great opportunity to meet fellow off-the-beaten path travelers. At the first dinner, we bonded with Jorge, a Costa Rican from San Jose, who was accompanying a Swiss couple on their rainforest adventure. There is a separate building that houses a bar complete with hammocks, chairs and a lookout deck (not the same alluring vibe as “our bar” at Lapa Rios, but it served us well). A truly unique place…very understandable why Fodor’s rated Corcovado Tent Camp in their top 20 ‘hotels” out of 30,000 worldwide destinations.

Corcovado Tent Camp Osa Peninsula Costa Rica

Our Corcovado Tent Camp baggage handler

It’s raining some almost every day now…the wet season is starting a bit early and will last through early December. The only difference it makes for us now is that for a part of the day we go from being damp and sticky to soaking wet…the temperature remains the warm enough to continue wearing a tank top and shorts.

Throughout the trip we have met so many friendly travelers, who – like us – stay clear of tourist trap destinations. Many of them are a part of a serious subculture and are known as “Birders”. We met the most serious, and hysterically funny, of “Birders” last night at dinner…a retired college science professor and his wife who have traveled the world over the last 40 years building a huge master list of sightings. They are setting out tomorrow with an experienced local guide, Pablo, to find at least one of four different birds missing from their list. Much to Pablo’s dismay, all four birds are “little” and “brown”, nearly impossible to spot in a dense rainforest (Lance and I have coined the term “LBBs”…”little brown birds”)! Pablo’s got his work cut out for him…the other guide was quite happy to be with Lance and I, who are thrilled to see the large vibrantly colored birds that even a small child can spot.

Corcovado Tent Camp

Our days are a combination of relaxing and exploring. We relax during the heavy morning rains and explore after lunch. One day we set met up with six other guests and a guide for a trek into Corcovado National Park. No new creature sightings…but, more howler and spider monkeys, another three-toed sloth, and a couple of coatimundis! After about four hours, a hot shower was awfully appealing…but, it was not to be. The rumor circulating through the camp about a lack of hot water was true…there wasn’t even a hot knob! What I’d like to know is how they manage to make the water coming out of the showerhead colder than the ocean??? The Ritz Carlton prices are clearly not for such perks as hot showers and a private toilet…but, they are for a pristine setting way off the beaten path and the friendly company of fellow adventurers!

Those of you who know me will be shocked to know that I have been waking up around 6 a.m. every day, sometimes earlier, while Lance snoozes away beside me. You take electricity away from me and most of the reasons for staying up late disappear. The loud crashing waves right outside out tent are not conducive to sleeping late. So I was easily motivated for a morning trek beginning at 7 a.m.

Our final destination was a tree platform about 100 feet up into the canopy. The guides harness you and pull you up, hoping to give you an extra special sighting from this towering vantage point. While we had a nice time, all we saw was one bloody hawk. Maybe this would have thrilled some of the visiting “Birders”, but we were feeling let down. Our moods were uplifted when we walked onto the camp grounds to an especially vibrant day. As we sat on the tiny deck in front of our tent, we looked out through bright green palm trees at an electrified sky and foamy white waves crashing out of the teal blue sea onto the soft sand (kind of excites the scrapbooker in me as I envision the colorful page this is going to make).

Our candlelit “Home Sweet Home”

SAN JOSE, COSTA RICA

It appears that piloting tiny little airplanes is now a potential career for me. I’ve overcome my curse…I can remain calm while we speed down short gravel runways cleared from the rainforest and wobble upwards toward the sky. I can now gaze out the window at the beauty beneath me while speaking in complete sentences. Wonders never cease.

We flew back to San Jose today and returned to our quaint artistic hotel – Hotel Don Carlos – in the old section of the city. After the beauty of the rainforest, the city is a bit of a letdown…crowded, dirty, poor with a fair amount of crime (as well as “las muchachas con un surpriso” hanging out on the street corners…I’ll let you figure that one out all by yourself). We were told an American passport brings about $10,000 on the

Red eyed tree frog calling for women…

black market. We’ve had enough adventure, so we opted for reducing our standards and morphing into tourists. We hopped into a van that advertised this slightly humiliating decision to all of San Jose and drove us to the Britt Coffee Plantation for a guided tour. Three Costa Rican comedians did manage to make us chuckle a few times while they educated us on the process of making Arabica coffee…and we managed to visit the plantation on one of only two days that the coffee plants bloom. Later that evening, we dined in a beautiful restaurant – Grano de Oro – housed in an old plantation style mansion…a recommendation from Jorge, who surprised us by showing up to see us and say a final goodbye.

The worst part of the trip is heading home…not because we’re coming home, but because we’ll be in airports for the next 12 hours. What an anti-climax after seeing the beauty of Costa Rica. Can’t wait to come back…

Goodbye, Costa Rica…

BELIZE: “The Rainforest & The Reef”

Posted on July 26, 2010 by janet d.

I originally posted this blog on Travelblog.org in May 2006. It was the first of many visits to Belize…the one when we fell in love with this small Central American country. I’m torn between wishing for a steady succession of tourists to boost the local economy and wanting to keep quiet about this slice of Paradise so it remains unspoiled. We are returning in February 2011…I want to see even more, relax even more, and see what new tropical drinks they’ve invented in the last two years!

What better way to celebrate a marriage than to wander together? It had to be exotic to properly honor our 15 years together. We imported a grandmother once again to stay with our two kids, put our trust into our newest travel book – 1,000 Places To See Before You Die – and prepared for a full-fledged adventure.

GALLON JUG, BELIZE

So grateful to have arrived on solid ground at the Gallon Jug airstrip!

We arrived in Belize City’s tiny airport at 11:00 a.m. on a beautiful April day. I had heard warnings to steer clear of the city, so we were pretty relieved to be met almost immediately by our charter pilot. Daniel, a native Belizean who has been flying tourists around the island for the past 30 years (my confidence in Javier’s Flying Service was immediately boosted), would fly us to Chan Chich Lodge, a rainforest resort located in the middle of an ecological preserve. During a leisurely walk to the plane, Daniel educated us on the socio-economic situation in Belize. It’s quite sad, really…all the young people (including his own two sons) are wooed by America’s “offer” of money and material possessions. He expressed his hope that the U.S. would better secure the border to give Belize a fighting chance.

When we reached the plane, he invited me (and my trusty plastic barf bag…I learned on my honeymoon to never board a tiny plane without this necessary luxury) to sit in the front seat where I would be blown by fresh air and could keep my eyes on the horizon in an effort to avoid my usual motion sickness. I climbed in and nervously looked around at the interior of the plane, which was about the size of my small sports car and would e crammed with four people (I was sure glad I was a “rule follower” and packed VERY light). My husband’s last words before we took off were…“It won’t be as bad as you think, Honey.” Spoken like a person with an iron stomach. After about 15 minutes, Daniel figured out that he’d better start directing his tourist spiel to the husband in the back seat! By the time we landed 45 minutes later, I had used the bag twice and no longer feared dying in a small plane crash…death seemed preferable to the state I was in. (I felt completely vindicated when I saw the other passenger, a friend of Daniel’s, leaning over his bag.)

Chan Chich Lodge in Gallon Jug

When my feet hit solid ground, I focused on gratitude and not dread about the four more flights we would be taking in the next 10 days. We climbed into the waiting van and arrived at the lodge just 15 minutes later. After a warm welcome, we were immediately seated for lunch as it was ending soon and there would not be another opportunity to eat again until dinner. Unfortunately, my first meal in Belize – grilled grouper, sautéed vegetables, and rice – was not truly appreciated as my stomach was still roiling.

The lodge was incredible…very UNcrowded with only 12 screened bungalows surrounded by rain forest and several unexcavated Mayan ruins. We were told that the property, which is part of a 350,000 acre preserve and includes a pristine working farm, is owned by a Coca Cola executive who spends quite a lot of time here. What a brilliant man.

Howler monkey Chan Chich Lodge Gallon Jug Belize

It was hard to remember that we were not in a zoo…this Howler Monkey was a bit too interested in us!

The first thing you notice when you arrive is the sound of the birds. The surrounding forest is home to more than 300 species of birds. (This is a probably a good time to mention that we are NOT members of the birding subculture that is able to name virtually every bird they see…we’re part of the vacationing parent subculture that desperately seeks relaxation & adventures without whining.) The most noticeable birds are the oscillated turkeys (the ones plagued by bright orange facial warts) and the Montezuma oropendula (with the unique sound and scrotum-like nests hanging down from the trees). It wasn’t long before we heard the “roaring”. Although we were convinced it was a monstrous cat lurking right inside the dark section of rainforest immediately to our left, we were soon enlightened that it was actually male howler monkeys we were hearing and they were perched in the forest canopy miles away.

Activities at Chan Chich include walking (remember the giddy excitement of treasure hunts when you were a child?), eating (delicious gourmet local specialties at every meal and, most importantly, Lissette’s Secret Sauce made at Gallon Jug Farm), reading (I’ve never had the luxury – when I could appreciate its value – of finishing a book in two days), and siestas (in our own personal hammocks swinging gently over our cabana deck). That’s what we do ALL day EVERY day…which is particularly thrilling for parents of active young children! One day we got out of the box and took a horseback ride through the countryside…probably the best sighting was the tiny one-room Gallon Jug high school. If you want to see some wildlife, all you have to do is meander around the grounds…basilisk lizards (those crazy reptiles that stand up on their hind legs and run like hell when startled), all kinds of strange looking birds (that we don’t know the names of), colorful snakes (sometimes falling from trees mid-meal), and very large bugs (and spiders) of all shapes and sizes.

There are nine miles of trails surrounding the lodge where you can explore on your own or with a guide. On our first night, we took a guided night walk and saw several humongous forest scorpions, two giant cane toads, lots of red rumped tarantulas and a small crocodile. These walks are worth the price…first, you have the knowledge of the local guide (priceless), plus you have the advantage of multiple pairs of searching eyes resulting in substantially more creature sightings. Our initial solitary daytime walks on the lodge trails yielded nothing more exciting than huge moths and butterflies. But, then we acclimated. To become acclimated, one has to SLOW DOWN and pay attention to every falling leaf, snapping twig, any noise whatsoever. From that point on, we regularly encountered entire families of howler and spider monkeys on multiple walks.

Harlequin bug Chan Chich Lodge Gallon Jug Belize

Is it real? Nah, touch it! Crap…it was!!!

We absolutely loved Chan Chich Lodge…it offered us the perfect balance between exotic adventure and relaxation. Although we didn’t see as many mammals as we had hoped, we weren’t disappointed as the staff spoiled us and the food was outstanding. Although we were happy to be temporarily childless on this trip, we hope to bring our two children back for a family adventure. Well, the hammock is calling my name…it’s siesta time. Next stop…Ambergris Caye.

AMBERGRIS CAYE, BELIZE

San Pedro, Ambergris Caye

We got off the plane in San Pedro (I definitely progressed…although I was well into the mouth-watering phase, I held my stomach contents down refusing to enter the final phase) and stepped back in time about 50 years. The town is straight out of a Jimmy Buffet song – populated with middle-aged men hanging out with their sailing/diving buddies, honeymooning couples with the nervous young wives clinging tightly to their new hubby’s arm (and questioning his sanity for the very first time), and frat boys on spring break. It has a distinctly Caribbean flavor, which we learned (from Daniel, the pilot) was a result of the country being initially populated by prisoners, most of whom were former slaves from the West Indies. The majority of the streets are dirt and lined with colorful shops and vendor stands selling everything from fresh fruit to diving services. The only modes of transportation are golf carts, bicycles (often faster than the golf carts), and dirty feet. The local language is a mix of Spanish, Creole and English, often peppered with a variety of four-letter words and always including the consummate Caribbean “Ya, Man”. I am quite grateful that everyone happily speaks English (a souvenir from the British colony days) to the tourists. Unlike heavily travelled areas, the locals here seem to genuinely appreciate the tourists…we were always greeted with a bright smile.

As it was initially a bit overwhelming, we were thankful to be met by a land taxi that took us to a water taxi that took us straight to our home for the next several days – Journey’s End Resort (now closed). We would return to San Pedro soon…after we shed our luggage and got our bearings.

We were met on the resort’s dock by Bill, a Creole Belizean wearing one of his many pairs of colorful Converse high tops and carrying a tropical drink in each hand. After being encouraged to relax Belizean-style for a while, we were shown to our room – a tiny plantation-style bungalow just steps from the shore. A big four poster bed with mosquito netting filled the interior giving the room some old world character.

Journey's End Resort Ambergris Caye Belize

Journey’s End Resort in Ambergris Caye

Having missed the last afternoon ferry back into town, we decided to walk. What we didn’t know was that it was 4-1/2 miles down the beach. We got about a third of the way there when two very inebriated American gentlemen came barreling around the corner in a golf cart. Within 30 seconds they invited us for a drink and offered us a ride into town. We spent the next 45 minutes drinking rum punches at Captain Morgan’s Resort with Alan (a retired family physician) and James (with the Department of Defense and our “limo” driver for the day) – two avid diver buddies determined to drink all day. This was a great place! Thatched roof cabanas scattered about the sand, plenty of hammock-endowed palm trees, catamarans just begging to be pushed out onto the calm turquoise water, and two oceanfront swimming pools…and the bar, of course. After we were done admiring CM’s, we four-wheeled it back into the dusty town, paid the bridge toll to two Belizean men paid to spot tourists, and were dropped right at the door of Alan and James’ favorite restaurant – El Fogon.

El Fogon in San Pedro

El Fogon is a tiny hole-in-the-wall with dirt floors serving Creole food on picnic tables. We devoured the most amazingly fresh REAL red snapper…a meal you just don’t find in the states. And, did I mention the fritters??? Oh my…what a meal. We didn’t have much time to shop before the ferry left…we spent most of our time buying a handmade necklace from Daryl the Rastafarian (“I make de necklaces in de day and come out in de night.”). While reaching into his bag to choose a thank you gift to give to us, my husband and I later laughed at our identical thought…that this guy was going to whip out the hugest joint we ever laid eyes on (it wouldn’t be the first time this trip). But, no…this sweet guy gave us a small needlepoint magnet of Belize as proudly as if it were carved out of solid gold.

Ahhh, the consequences of a laid back lifestyle – we missed two ferries back to the resort after arriving just one minute late. Oh well, back to Fido’s (“Fee Doze”) Bar to have a drink and listen to a band singing the blues, the Eagles and, who else but Jimmy Buffet. I am slightly suspicious that there might be a conspiracy lurking around the boat docks…one involving very prompt ferry captains, adorable little puppies, and friendly locals. All I intended to do was feel a little soft fur and kiss a wet nose…the dog’s owner had other plans. By the end of the next day, courtesy of Raul, we ended up with a timeshare at Captain Morgan’s. At this point, I’m thrilled…I sure hope we don’t have buyer’s remorse once we reenter the real world.

Everybody must explore the underwater jungle at the Hol Chan Marine Preserve at some point in their life. Upon arriving at the preserve, you must check in with the guy with the most coveted job in Belize…the fee collector. (He’s the one lounging in the anchored boat taking money from tourists all day.) What a life. We quickly got down to business and jumped in the water with our guide. I’ll give you a visual…you know the underwater screensaver you’ve seen on tons of computers? It’s here – for real. Just add a 4-foot green moray eel, several huge leopard spotted rays, and an 8-foot nurse shark and make sure the water temperature is equivalent to a mildly heated swimming pool. It’s warm, clear and calm…my kind of place to snorkel! I had another brief moment wishing our kids could see what we were seeing…some day, without a doubt.

Our very sweet San Pedro vendor-mon…

Courtesy of a convention of hyper-relaxed American corporate types staying at our resort, we were treated to a 20-member steel drum band while narrowing down the best Belizean tropical drink that evening. Even with our resort at 100% occupancy, there were no crowds…people disperse to the multitude of exotic or quiet places (or one of the plethora of bars). I love it…it feels like we don’t have to share too much.

The next day we woke up to warm, gale force winds (I stood corrected by the locals who labeled it a “breeze”). It was the perfect day for venturing out to experience more local color, so it was back to San Pedro to catch a water taxi to Caye Caulker, a small laid back village on the tiny island we could see from our resort. In Caye Caulker, the local color is vibrant…literally and figuratively. The buildings that line the shore and sandy “streets” are pulled right from an eccentric painter’s palette…a single house will be painted up to four colors – turquoise, golden yellow, mango, chartreuse, blue, whatever strikes their fancy. It’s a slightly poorer town than San Pedro and is the destination of choice of rebel travelers who resist conformity, the traveling student, and life’s drop-outs who must stretch their travel dollar as far as possible. If you are ever looking for a place to escape and recapture your spirit, look no further…I have no doubt you’ll find it here.

One of many colorful homes on Caye Caulker

Life in Ambergris Caye is slow and casual…the perfect balance between activities and relaxation. There’s a bar about every 20 feet and you could take off your shoes (and make-up) at the San Pedro Airport and never put them back on until you got back on the plane. The sign that welcomes you to San Pedro says it all…”No shirt, no shoes, no drugs…no problem!”. I know we’ll be back…many more times in our lifetime. And, we’ll be staying at Captain Morgan’s, of course!

Me chillin’ in Paradise…

The Wandering (Ex)-Housewife

A virtual memento box of treasures collected while wandering through life & the world…

Category Archives: Mexico/Central America